Amigurumi Goose Free Crochet Pattern

Hello dear visitors, I am here again with new amigurumi molds for you. I am sharing amigurumi patterns for you here for free. You can make your children happy by making these patterns. Amigurumi toys are very popular lately and are the most beautiful toys that don’t harm your kids. Your kids will love them. Let’s move on to our pattern and give them this gift.

Necessary materials:

You can knit from any yarn in any combination.

You will need at least 2 colors (head, body + paws, beak)

Or 3 colors (head, body + beak + paws)

Colors to your taste and color.

Also, if you have a desire, you will need to buy cotter pins.

For toys made of yarn up to 400m / 100 gr. size 1.6 * 20 mm smaller

footage, including a 2 * 20 mm bun. In total, 3 cotter pins (1 head and 2 wings) will be needed

They will need disks, their size depends on the yarn from which you plan to knit.

– fine yarn in the region of 500-600 m / 100 g. in wings discs about 6-

8-9 mm (I have 8) – 4 pcs. And in the head-neck 18-20 (head) 15-18 (neck). 1 to the head, 1 to the neck.

Accordingly, the less yarn you have, the larger

you will need disk size. For the bun, I take a combination of 35 (head) – 30 (neck).

For reinforcement, you will need a wire, a medical patch will still be needed for it.

Well, do not forget about the eyes, filler, thread for a tie, needles, round-nose pliers (for cotter pins). I am sure that you have a lot of this.

ATTENTION!!!

It is assumed that you have cotter pin skills in a toy!

In this description, the details of this and any

another type of mount!

Legend:

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

İNC – increase, from one sc, two get out

DEC –decrease, two sc knit together with one

DC – double crochet

Head:

İnto magic ring 6 sc

1p) İNC * 6 times = 12 sc

2p) (1 sc, İNC) * 6 times = 18 sc

3p) (2 sc, İNC) * 6 times = 24 sc

4p) (3 sc, İNC) * 6 times = 30 sc

5p) (4 sc, İNC) * 6 times = 36 sc

6-11r) straight 36 sc (6 rows)

12p) 8 sc, İNC * 4 times, (İNC, 1 sc) * 3 times, put extra. Marker for tightenings (center of the muzzle), (1 sc, İNC) * 3 times, İNC * 4 times, 8 sc = 50sc

13p) straight 50 sc

14p) (3 sc, DEC) * 10 times = 40 sc

15p) (8 sc, DEC) * 4 times = 36 sc

16p) (4 sc, DEC) * 6 times = 30 sc

17p) (3 sc, DEC) * 6 times = 24 sc

18p) (2 sc, DEC) * 6 times = 18 sc

19p) (1 sc, DEC) * 6 times = 12 sc

We stuff our heads tight enough, do not close. If you knit without a cotter pin, then we’ll continue the body with the same thread, if you close it, then leave the thread long enough to close the hole.

I can’t help you about safe eyes, because I put my eyes after tightening, I think somewhere in the 10-12 row. It is necessary to look at the toy and the size of the eye.

Beak:

Chain of 6 ch

1p) İNC, 1 sc, 3 sc in 1 loop, 1 sc, 3 sc in the outer loop, on the other side of the chain 4 sc = 14 sc

You have a traditional circle instead

it turns out a kind of triangle.

2p) İNC, 3 sc, 3 sc in 1 loop, 3 sc, İNC, 5 sc = 18 sc

3p) straight 18 sc

4p) 1 sc, 3 sc in 1 loop, 10 sc, 3 sc in 1 loop, 5 sc = 22 sc

5p) straight 22 sc

Leave the tail of the thread sufficient to sew the beak to the head. First we sew the beak, by the end of the sewing it needs to be fitted. Add. the marker on the muzzle is hidden under the beak, this is the middle of the muzzle and when sewing the beak we focus on it to sew evenly. The top of the beak should coincide with ext.

marker. After sewing it off. Tail from sewing beak, and to the head.

Next, we make the ducks.

We place needles on the sides of the beak. We take a large needle with a strong thread, it is better for the color of the head. I have brown to show you.

We fix the thread at the bottom of the head under the chin, as close as possible to the neck, as close as possible.

Insert the needle at point 1 (under the chin), display at point 2 (the edge of the eye, the place marked with the needle), enter at point 3 (second the edge of the buckle) and display at point 1 (under the chin). Pull the thread and fix it below the chin. You should have a dimple for the eye. The same thing is repeated with the second eye.

After making the weights, insert the cotter pin down the head, with a slight shift forward (see a photo). The cotter pin should be about 1/3 of the head, a little larger can be.

You should put it under the knitting, as it were, but a little, about 3 mm a little more, a little less. After the head is full it is full, the cotter pin is inserted, the head is closed by decreases to the end, the tail from the thread, and to the head.

If you make your head without a cotter pin, then you make weights and just leave your head open, then you just continue to knit the neck.

Neck, torso:

İnto magic ring 6 sc

1p) İNC * 6 times = 12 sc

2p) (1 sc, İNC) * 6 times = 18 sc

3-7p) straight 18 sc (5 rows)

after 4 rows it is necessary to install a cotter pin, the marker thread goes behind in the middle of the head. If you do not have a cotter pin in your head, you knit 1 row 12 sc and beyond, starting with 2 rows of description.

8p) 5 sc, İNC, 7 sc, İNC, 4 sc = 20 sc

9p) straight 20 sc

10p) 7 sc, İNC, 7 sc, İNC, 5 sc = 22 sc

11p) straight 22 sc

12p) (5 sc, İNC) * 3 times, 4 sc = 25 sc

IMPORTANT!!! The marker should be back in the middle of the head, if it has shifted, it is necessary to make offset loops. We fill the neck as necessary.

Start the body

13p) İNC * 2 times, 22 sc, İNC = 28 sc

14p) İNC * 4 times, 3sc, İNC, 15 sc, İNC, 2 sc, İNC * 2 times = 36 sc

15p) (1 sc, İNC) * 4 times, 24 sc, (1 sc, İNC) * 2 times = 42 sc

16p) straight 42 sc

Marche A different thread will always shift slightly to the side due to increases (to the right), this is normal.

17p) İNC * 6 times, 36 sc = 48 sc

18p) (1 sc, İNC) * 6 times, 36 sc = 54 sc

19-21p) straight 54 sc (3 rows)

if you will fasten the wings, then they will need to be installed in the region of the 18th row. I don’t know in which row to tie the wings, since I didn’t, but I think that this is the same row as for the cotter pin.

We sew the sewn-in version of the wings already after we fill and completely cover the body, we orient ourselves in this case visually.

22p) (DEC, 1 sc) * 5 times, DEC, 37 sc = 48 sc

23p) straight 48 sc (1 row)

if you knit paws, then 23, the most successful row. Paws get tied along the front of the body, in a row in one fret.

24p) (6 sc, DEC) * 6 times = 42 sc

25p) (5 sc, DEC) * 6 times = 36 sc

26p) (4 sc, DEC) * 6 times = 30 sc

27p) (3 sc, DEC) * 6 times = 24 sc

28p) (2 sc, DEC) * 6 times = 18 sc

We stuff the body, pushing it tight enough into the neck. If there will be reinforcement of the paws, then the body does not close, it does not stuff very much, so that it would be convenient to insert the wire.

29p) (1 sc, DEC) * 6 times = 12 sc

30p) DEC * to the end or close in any way convenient for you. Leave big enough

ponytail thread for tying the tail of a duck.

Wings:

İnto magic ring 5 sc

1p) 2 sc, 3 sc in 1 loop, 2 sc = 7 sc

2p) 3 sc, 3 sc in 1 loop, 3 sc = 9 sc

3p) straight 9 sc

4p) 4 sc, 3 sc in 1 loop, 4 sc = 11 sc

5p) straight 11 sc

6p) 5 sc, 3 sc in 1 loop, 5 sc = 13 sc

7p) straight 13 sc

8p) (1 sc, DEC) * 4 times, 1 sc = 9 sc

There are several options for closing the wings, it can be folded in half and knit sc, in this case, the wing just sews to the body. If you want to put the wings on the cotter pins, then the wing closes down to the end, or simply contracts after installing the disk and cotter pin in it. The cotter pin is inserted from the top with the edge.

I didn’t stuff the wing of the velor geese. Perhaps if the toy is knitted from thicker yarn, then stuffing will be necessary, you need to look.

Do not forget that the wings are right and left when installing cotter pins.

The cotter pin is displayed in the 7th or 8th row, it depends on the size of the disk in which it will give, but it is better in 8.

Paws:

If you will reinforce the legs, then this must be done in the process of knitting the legs, in this case the body closes only after the reinforcement is carried out in it.

For toes we do

2 blanks

Extreme finger:

İnto magic ring 6 sc, straight 6 sc – 1 row

(tear off the thread)

Middle finger

İnto magic ring 6 sc

1p) (1 sc, İNC) * 3 times = 9 sc

2p) straight 9 sc (tear off the thread)

Once again, we begin to knit a small finger

İnto magic ring 6 sc

1p) straight 6 sc

2p) Connect all the fingers together.

Put the marker thread at the beginning of the row.

3 sc (on the first finger, the one that started to knit), 5 sc (on the big middle finger), 6 sc (on the extreme, third finger), 4 sc (on the big middle finger) and 3 sc (on the first finger) = 21 sc

3p) straight 21 sc

4p) 9 sc, DEC, 8 sc, DEC = 19 sc

5p) 8 sc, DEC, 7 sc, DEC = 17 sc

6p) 7 sc, DEC, 8 sc = 16 sc

7p) (DEC, 6 sc) * 2 times = 14 sc

8p) (DEC, 5 sc) * 2 times = 12 sc

Now is the time to make the reinforcement of the foot, and fill it a little

(fingers)

We knit the heel in reverse rows

9p) 6 sc, ch – deploy

10p) we begin to knit about the second from the edge of the loop 4 sc, ch – deploy

11p) again from the second from the edge of the loop 2 sc, ch – deploy

Move the marker thread to the beginning of the row, now we have to make 12 sc tying the heel in a circle

12p) 2 sc, (on the side), 6 sc, (on the front), 2 sc (second barrel), 2 sc (behind the heel)

13p) DEC * 6 times = 6 sc

Now is the most convenient time to fill the leg to the end.

14-16p) straight 6 sc

Change the color to white or another color that fits the gosling.

17p) (1 sc, İNC) * 3 times = 9 sc

18-19p) straight 9 sc (2 rows)

If you are doing reinforcement, now you need to insert the wire into the body (it should not be stuffed) and connect it together. If you long ends of reinforcement, you can not bite them off, but twist them together and put them in the ass, so that the gosling would keep its balance even better. Only after this, the body is stuffed and closed to the end, and then paws are sewn to the body.

For reinforcement, you can use any wire. I wrap it with medical plaster. This will give her a fortress and a small volume. If necessary, leg, thigh we stuff additionally. It depends on the yarn from which you knit a gander.

Tail:

We withdraw the thread remaining after closing the body in the ass, in the middle. Do 3 ch unfold

Goose head up and facing you. We make 1 dc (double crochet) in a loop in the body just to the left of the exit point of the chain of air loops.

Now we fix all this with a connecting column, putting to the left, everything that we have on the hook. Those. all that you have tied down lay on your side and attach to the body. We turn the Goose upside down, but still face it. And we knit 6 dc in the base of the originally typed ch. We fix it with a connecting column, putting the columns in the other direction now. We hide the tail of the thread from the tail of the Geese in the body.

To make it clearer, the tail is tied out on the body.